Sarah Breedlove McWilliams
“More emotions are better than less.”
– John Maeda, The Laws of Simplicity
Staring at her reflection in the oval mirror swinging slightly off a nail on faded yellow wallpaper in her small apartment, Sarah carefully parted her hair into sections with a metal comb. At six feet tall, Sarah had to bend her head to avoid hitting the low ceiling of her tenement dwelling. She was a big boned, large woman with brown skin, a large face, warm eyes and a striking countenance that riveted one’s attention. Pulling out some string from the left pocket of her white apron, she tightly wrapped it around each section, twisting it around to straighten the hair when she combed it out. In shock, she watched as a large tuft of thick black curly hair from her hand, floated down to the linoleum floor. She looked back at her image again in the mirror in horror. Frustrated, she let go of the hair and turned her head sideways to check her reflection, realizing slowly, with a sinking heart, that she was losing her hair.
At twenty years old, the knowledge that you are going bald would be quite devastating. Sarah Breedlove McWilliams was determined to find a solution. Sarah’s small apartment was similar to that of many Americans in the early 1900s that did not have electricity, central heating, or even indoor plumbing. She washed her hair once a month, a common practice in that era, which however, caused acute dandruff and scalp disease. Every day, she also cleaned households and washed clothes, employing harsh chemicals that were devastating to both skin and hair. By the time she was in her late teens, she was already losing hair and by her early twenties, would go bald if she continued the same method. She was determined to not let that happen.
Sarah was not unaccustomed to hardship or suffering. In fact, that was all she had known for most of her life. The daughter of former slaves Owen and Minerva Breedlove who now worked as sharecroppers in Louisiana, Sarah was the first child in the Breedlove family to be conceived in a free world. Born December 23, 1867, Sarah entered a rapidly changing world filled with often raucous and raw volatile emotions as the country recovered from the ravages of the Civil War. The South was embroiled in the uneasy truce of the Reconstruction era and as many former slaves left their work in the cotton plantations to seek their fortune in the industrial North and the farms of the West, Owen and Minerva staunchly remained loyal to their former owners, the Burney family who owned a cotton plantation near Delta, Louisiana.
Sarah worked in the fields with her parents until both Owen and Minerva contracted yellow fever and got deathly ill. Three of her brothers had already moved to St. Louis, Missouri. The South was unprepared for the deadly illnesses of Asia, and within weeks, Sarah’s parents both succumbed to the ravages of yellow fever. At seven, Sarah was left an orphan. Destitute, she turned to her older sister Louvenia, with whom she moved to Vicksburg, Mississippi.
Louvenia however was married to a cruel and manipulative man who enjoyed ridiculing and beating Sarah in one of his sour moods. By the age of fourteen, determined to escape, Sarah quickly agreed to marry a man by the name of Moses McWilliams. Life with Moses however did not prove to be too stable either. Shortly after the birth of their daughter Lelia in 1885, Moses was caught up in the sweeping race riots rocking the South and brutally killed. In desperation, Sarah decided to pack her bags and move, joining her brothers in St. Louis.
Fueled by an unquenchable desire to provide for her young daughter, Sarah was determined that Leila would have the opportunity to attend college. Sarah herself was illiterate. Despite being impoverished, orphaned, and now widowed, Sarah did not give up. She took a job as a washerwoman for $1.50 a day, and talking to local women that she met, found out and joined the St. Paul’s African Methodist Episcopal Church. Every week, she kept the same rigorous schedule of washing clothes all day and cleaning homes in the evening six days a week, attending church on Sundays. Her church became her podium for acquiring connections and confidence. It was there that she also met and married her second husband John Davis in 1894. Inspired greatly by the model set forth by Booker T. Washington in his autobiography Up From Slavery published in 1901, Sarah developed and refined her speaking skills, while working hard.
Sarah was acutely conscious of her thinning hair. A scalp ailment had left some sections of her head bald, which she had to conceal with other hair. Mortified by her own appearance and desperate for a solution, she began to experiment with home remedies created by another black woman Annie Malone, who also had a part-time career as a model.
Her marital life was again chaotic as Davis left her and the couple got divorced in 1903. Despite the heavy blows dealt to her by life and her own choices, Sarah was determined to not give up. She was not going to sit and wait for opportunity to knock. Rather, she acted quickly and decisively on it. Sarah accompanied Annie Malone to the World Fair in 1904, watching her demonstrate her shampoo and hair irons. Sarah prayed desperately to God to save her hair. Her answer came in the form of a vivid dream where a large black man appeared and told her what to do for her hair. She got up and started to make that concoction, trying it out on her own scalp. Noticing, a considerable improvement, she began to experiment with the ingredients even more, recognizing the commercial potential of this hair care solution. She labeled her black beauty product, the “Wonderful Hair Grower,” a hair conditioning and scalp treatment formula that was soon followed by other products for the underserved black community such as Tetter Salve that treated scalp psoriasis, and Glossine hair oil. Within two years, she perfected a method for straightening African hair employing a pomade, brushing, and heated combs, while also treating hair conditions. Her steel hot comb with large teeth widely spaced enabled black women to easily style their hair, straightening and pressing as desired. After going from door to door selling her concoctions, Sarah moved to Denver, Colorado, working for Annie Malone as a commissioned agent, selling both her own remedies and Annie’s.
Sarah knew instinctively that she had the ability to reach the massive and untapped black beauty market. She just had to get out there and have her products recognized, produced, and distributed. Not content with just taking in her sales commission and waiting for an opportunity to arise, Sarah decided to split from Malone and build her own line of beauty products. Soon after, she met an advertising man called Charles J. Walker in Denver, whom she married in 1906. Charles encouraged Sarah to expand in a way that was inconceivable to her before. His journalism background assisted her in creating promotional avenues in black publications. Designing alluring advertisements for her beauty products, Charles convinced her to use a different name of Madame C. J. Walker. Those changes, accompanied by Sarah’s own remarkable journey of personal growth and confidence, led to incredible and unprecedented success. Within three years, sales had reached over six thousand and five hundred dollars (or the equivalent of one hundred and forty thousand dollars in 2008), and in the next several years, reached two hundred and fifty thousand dollars (or four and a half million dollars in 2008.)
Like other successful entrepreneurs, Sarah was able to recognize an opportunity in a large and untapped market, and act decisively to reach that market with a product she had devised and perfected herself. Despite being uneducated and hailing from an impoverished and destitute background, Sarah was able to overcome every adversity she faced and not only harness the opportunities available to her, but also to make them readily available to others.
Every skill that she acquired, from sales demonstrations to networking with people, she put to use. In many ways, Sarah was one of the best students of practical experience. Always open to suggestions for improvement, Sarah aggressively worked on improving her sales and marketing techniques. When her company achieved considerable success in 1908, Sarah opened Leila College in Pittsburg to teach and train her employees, whom she called hair culturists, run by her daughter Leila. She patented her own system called “The Walker System,” offering an extensive range of cosmetics, licensing her own team of “Walker Agents,” and providing an avenue for employment for several thousand black women.
Acutely conscious of the racial, social, and economic factors that hindered black women from acquiring wealth or status in society, Sarah’s business approach was two-fold. Sarah offered beauty products that enhanced the appearance of a black woman both in terms of personal hygiene and beauty. This in turn, inspired black women to feel more confident in their own self-image, while gaining access to dominant society. The second aspect of her approach was her conscious employment of hundreds upon thousands of black women, who worked in her factories in Indianapolis built in 1910 and as promotional agents. Walker agents, attired in long black skirts and sharply pressed white tops, were living testimonies to the benefits of her products as they went from door to door, selling Sarah’s cosmetics throughout the United States and the Caribbean and extolling her philosophy of cleanliness combined with loveliness.
Sarah acted on every opportunity that came her way. Recognizing the value of living by a burgeoning railroad hub for easy transport of goods, Sarah moved the manufacturing plant and consolidated all her offices in Denver and Pittsburg to the centralized location of Indianapolis. Her Walker Agents were carefully trained and groomed to build one of the most powerful sales force teams of the time. Apart from door to door sales, Sarah maintained an exhausting travel schedule, logging thousands of miles on the road as she demonstrated her products to people directly. Her daughter ran both the school and the exploding mail order business as well. Everywhere that she traveled, Sarah deliberately met with black leaders within the community, encouraging their use of her products and thus reaching the majority of the populace through their endorsements, combining both her sales effort with her own philanthropic and educational aims for the black community.
Sarah also mastered her oratory and penmanship skills, soon holding large audiences in awe as she recounted her own personal stories and how through perseverance, hard work, and a relentless faith in her own ability to succeed, she overcame all obstacles in her path. As she said so eloquently herself on numerous occasions, “I am a woman who came from the cotton fields of the South. From there I was promoted to the washtub. From there I was promoted to the cook kitchen. And from there I promoted myself into the business of manufacturing hair goods and preparations. I have built my own factory on my own ground.”
Sarah did not believe in an easy path to success. Hers was the result of hard, diligent work. Within less than a decade of inventing her first product, Sarah Breedlove Walker was the first African American woman to become a self-made millionaire. Manufacturing products in her own plant, she now commanded a sales force all over the nation that could sell her products as well as numerous beauty shops. With annual revenues exceedingly half a million dollars, her company was the largest and most successful black business in the country.
In an era where an unskilled white laborer could earn eleven dollars a week, Sarah provided employment for black women who could earn anywhere from five to fifteen dollars a day; a rare and highly profitable endeavor. Many women, who were thus empowered, were able to acquire both financial independence and social status. They could buy their homes and pay for education for their children. Sarah however was not content to simply make money. She encouraged her employees to give back to community, organizing clubs to foster philanthropy and an entrepreneurial spirit. Sarah also led by example, contributing to black education in colleges, supporting disenfranchised black women, and funding the new organization, the NAACP or the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People, while raising awareness against lynching and race riots. She spoke eloquently at demonstrations and meetings, and eagerly supported old age homes, orphanages, and colleges.
Sarah did not shy away from public attention or controversy. Known not only for her philanthropic ways, Sarah also had an extravagant lifestyle befitting a millionairess, which only enhanced her public image of success and empowerment. Dramatically altering public conception of what a black woman could look and live like, Sarah Breedlove Walker offered opportunities for improving personal hygiene, beauty, and confidence for black women all over the country, while touching the lives of hundreds of thousands of people through her philanthropy.
In many ways, Sarah was the quintessential saleswoman. She sold a product that she believed in and used herself. She had invented a product inspired by her own need and fueled by her own ambition and enthusiasm for her own product, Sarah was able to dramatically improve the standard of living for black women, empowering them to enter the world of business. Through her school and Walker agents, she built a business system that could be replicated and thus expanded. By simplifying her process and standardizing it, Sarah was able to reach hundreds of thousands of people through a proven sales and marketing system that she had created herself. She was then free to spend her time exploring new opportunities, building new products, and investing in other business ventures.
Sarah was able to recognize immediately the universal nature of her own problem among the black community. What had been a reason for ridicule, “kinky” hair now offered her the chance to create a marketable solution, build a fortune, create a repeatable revenue model, and empower the lives of black women all over the country.